Ambul thiyal comes from Sri Lanka’s deep south, where it was invented as a way to preserve the day’s tuna catch without refrigeration — the goraka’s acidity keeps the fish for days. It is a dry curry: almost no gravy, every cube of fish coated in a dark, sour spice paste.
Method
- Grind the soaked goraka with a splash of its soaking water into a paste.
- In a bowl, combine the goraka paste, pepper, chilli powder, turmeric, garlic, ginger and salt. Coat the tuna cubes thoroughly.
- Arrange the fish in a single layer in a wide, heavy pan (traditionally a clay pot). Tuck in the curry leaves, pandan and cinnamon.
- Add just enough water to come halfway up the fish. Bring to a simmer.
- Cook uncovered over low heat for 30–40 minutes, without stirring — shake the pan gently instead so the fish doesn’t break.
- It’s done when the liquid has evaporated completely and the fish is dark brown. Serve at room temperature with rice; it tastes even better the next day.