In Jaffna, mutton curry means goat, bones in, cooked low and slow until the meat surrenders. The gravy — dark from roasted curry powder, hot with black pepper — is what you’ll be mopping up with rice, string hoppers or roti long after the meat is gone.
Method
- Marinate the mutton with half the curry powder, the pepper and salt for at least 30 minutes.
- Heat the oil in a heavy pot. Fry the fennel, cinnamon, cardamom and curry leaves, then the onions until deeply golden.
- Add garlic and ginger, fry 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and cook down to a paste.
- Add the mutton and remaining curry powder and sear, stirring, for 5 minutes.
- Add hot water to barely cover, then simmer covered on low for 1½ hours (or 25 minutes in a pressure cooker) until tender.
- Stir in the coconut milk and simmer uncovered until the gravy is thick and clings to the meat. Rest before serving.